|South and North Garbage|
I must admit, I'm fighting some of the old big-wave fear again. I'd worked my way up to riding overhead waves last winter and had some of my best ever at Garbage on my 6'2", long rides that kept me stoked for days. But the waves have been small in San Diego for so long that I guess I've forgotten that I can ride them, and fear of the big drop has built up again. I think I could get past it, if only I had an empty break to practice on - every surfer's dream! It would also help if I had a surf buddy to encourage and push me; I miss my NorCal friends. But I'll get my big-wave mojo back again, eventually.
The day ended on a good note, with publication of my second story in the San Diego Reader: Major projects at Mission Beach's Plunge. Yay!