07 March 2014

A Fistful of Seaweed

Since the storms last week, the ocean off Pacific Beach has been brown in large patches. Today I paddled out into it and learned why. The brown comes from many tiny bits of broken seaweed, masticated by big waves. After each windswell-induced duck-dive, I'd raise my hand to wipe the water from my eyes, only to find I was pulling strands of seaweed across my face.
The surf at the Pumphouse was on the fast rise, with shifty head-high+ sets rolling through regularly and breaking farther from the beach as the session wore on. For a time it seemed I was never out far enough to avoid being on the breaking side of the bigger ones, and was again, frustratingly, washed in. Aside from a few whitewatery rides, I did score one green wave, a fun smaller right that had a bit of shoulder before sectioning.

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