I had a lot of fast drops, some successful before the wave closed out. My most interesting wave had a large mogul in the face; I didn't make it over. There was plenty of energy in the water, and on one unsuccessful duck-dive, a 6-foot set wave drilled me to the bottom as I instinctively grabbed hold of a thick stalk of kelp which failed to save me from rolling against the sand.
Kelp islands on the sand south of the pier |
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