11 March 2014


Believe it or not, I didn't want to surf today. I just haven't been feeling it lately and wanted to swim instead. But with the Plunge at my health club closed for two months, swimming options are limited. So I had to surf. Semi-ironic sigh.
A large part of my surfing malaise I'm sure is due to my lackluster performance of late. That streak didn't break this morning at Tourmaline, although I think I got a bit better at duck-diving my shortboard and nagged myself into going for more waves without "putting on the brakes" as surf coach Dan has faulted. One right in particular left me feeling like I can, indeed, actually surf.

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