25 March 2014


The lulls were interminable at Bird Rock and a couple guys were dominating the few-wave sets that came through infrequently. I caught a right but needed another stroke or two to get fully into it on my shortboard.
A third dude in the lineup said it was better earlier and he'd been waiting a really long time for his last wave. Steve lamented that he should've brought a book. Tired of bobbing in the chop, I paddled in after nearly an hour - which of course brought a set on my heels.

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