29 May 2007


Surfergrrrl is on hiatus while she's in rehab for an acute case of surf addiction.

04 May 2007

Pleasure Point, 4 May 2007

Swell direction: NW
Tide: Rising, just past -0.5 low
Wind: Light breeze
Air/Water Temp: 50/54 degrees
Wildlife: Dolphins, a seal, an otter, and a mean guy

Like yesterday only worse - cloudier, windier, more disorganized. And when I didn't quite manage to paddle out over a wave before it started to break and tumbled me, smashing my chin and lip into my board (my first pressure ding - sob!), I came up to an angry asshole yelling at me for hitting him. This despite the fact that, as D reported, there were copious amounts of blood flowing from my lip at the time. I don't know where Angry Guy had been since he wasn't in my field of view when I was paddling to the outside; he must have been inside of me trying to catch the wave I got caught up in. At any rate, I apologized and offered to pay for the damage he was screaming about, but he preferred to keep yelling at me, calling me a menace. So D quietly led me away from the jerk and his friends. I actually managed to catch a wave then and ride for a few more milliseconds than I had done. But the peace of the morning was ruined. People like that are the true menaces to the surfing experience. Shit happens, but we're supposed to be out there to have fun. It's not good to lose sight of what's important.

03 May 2007

38th Ave, 3 May 2007

Swell direction: NW
Tide: Rising, an hour past -0.5 low
Wind: Calm to very light
Air/Water Temp: 45/54 degrees
Wildlife: A distant seal

No pix today; my camera battery died. It was 4-5', bigger closer to the Point, and surprisingly uncrowded. Unfortunately D decided to waste his time sleeping instead of surfing. I'm getting more used to the shortboard now, actually catching a few waves, although not managing to ride them for very long. I think I need to practice in the whitewater some more just to get the feel of being up on the board. Too bad there's not a loooong barely-sloping beach break like Westport, WA, around here - that would be perfect.

When I parked at the Hook, a couple guys hit me up for wax. (Funny how that never happens when I'm with D, but like every other time when I'm alone.) Before they finished with my wax, a homeless guy, who looked like a former member of ZZ Top, paused his overloaded grocery cart to ask me about my MINI Cooper's gas mileage (28-30). Guess he thought the conversation was unfinished, because after I surfed, he followed me back from the bluff to my car. Said he liked to talk to pretty women, had $50K in the bank his aunt left him, and was an idiot savant. Hmm. Seemed mostly harmless, but I needed to change into my work clothes, and escaping to the bathroom was my only option. Fortunately he didn't follow me in there!