20 March 2014


I love the way the water sparkles like diamonds in the sunshine at the top of a glassy wave that's about to break. Of course I only get that view when I'm about to duck-dive the ensuing whitewater, but that's not a big deal when the waves are only waist-high. The small waves south of the pier were slow, like the pod of dolphins moving languidly through the sea just outside the lineup. I grew bolder and paddled nearer to the peak to catch the soft waves on my fish, and had a handful of wipeouts but a few nice rides too. Slow down, take it easy.


  1. hi, just wanted to leave you a sincere thank you for your blog. i'm a beginner and believe it or not, i draw a lot of encouragement hearing about the things you are working on in surfing, both mentally and physically. i can get sketched when conditions are bad or the surf is big, but reading about how an experienced surfer like you approaches these things is so helpful to me. so--thank you! keep it up and maybe i'll see ya out there one of these days

    1. You're welcome! If you ever see me in the water, please paddle over and say hi.