23 April 2015

Nothing to Sneeze At

This morning was my first time surfing in a week. Early last Friday, I sneezed too hard and hurt my sacroiliac joint – I had no idea what or where that was, until my low back/right hip hurt every time I bent over. And seriously, who gets injured by a sneeze? After suffering through the weekend, I saw my chiropractor on Monday, who told me sneezes more commonly cause dislocated ribs. Huh.

Yesterday was Earth Day and I went on local TV and radio to plug San Diego Surfrider's new Ocean Friendly Restaurants campaign. Watch/listen/read more here.

Anyway, on to the surf! Although I missed some nice swell through the weekend, the last few days were thankfully small and meh. Today the size increased and I was forced, due to my still delicate post-sneeze condition, to paddle out at the gentlest spot in the neighborhood instead of charging shoulder-high plus waves at the pier. I didn't leave disappointed. It felt good to be back in the water and I rode a handful of fun waves too.
from the Surfline cam

13 April 2015

Definitely Better Than Nothing

Small and weak but better than last week's next-to-nothing. I enjoyed my solo session.
It really didn't look this bleak. And then the sun came out.

04 April 2015

Slow Saturday with the CP DP Regulars

Ordinarily I try to leave Saturday and Sunday for the weekend warriors, since I can surf almost anytime during the week and I don't like to fight the crowds. But the forecast for next week is looking a bit grim, so I surfed dawn patrol today and will likely tomorrow as well.
from the Surfline cam, after the fact
There was already a small pack on the north side of Crystal Pier when I paddled out on my shortboard. Their faces were all familiar: David the sponger, Howard the longboarder, Jeff the shortboarder, and Brian who rides whatever board is best for the day, plus a couple guys I've seen before but don't know by name yet. Everyone was chatting and friendly, which is why, if I'm going to surf in a crowd, I want it to be this crowd of CP DP regulars. The spirit of aloha is alive and well in this place in the early morning.

The waves were chest-high at best, lully and inconsistent. I rode a couple of good ones, a left and a right, and spent a lot of time waiting. When the shift changed and the regulars were replaced by the weekend warriors, I left them to it and left with a smile.

30 March 2015

Inconsistent Fun

There was a surprisingly light crowd this morning. I had the first couple of waves all to myself.
Sets were head-high+ but the lulls in between were quite long.
I think I waited twenty minutes for my wave in. It was well worth it though. Stoked!

26 March 2015

Time to Think

The best things about this morning's surf were that it was a lovely dawn and I had plenty of time to think. The swell fell a lot since yesterday and the dropping low tide didn't help matters. No one else even bothered to paddle out. Rideable waves were few and far between, and when one made a rare appearance I was never in the right place - but near enough a few times to get up and ride.
The impossibly long lulls gave me ample time to muse on the young adult fantasy novel I've started writing, about a surfer girl named Nerina who's given ocean-related superpowers by a merman. The working title is Marinea and the Fountains of the Farallones. While I bobbed in the sea, I cycled through an alphabet of last names until I found one suitable for the villain of the story.

To keep my book on track, I joined a writers' group that meets weekly to review each other's work, up to 3500 words. At last night's meetup, one of the women said she found it unbelievable that a teenage girl would be out surfing all by herself. As I explained that it's not really uncommon to surf solo, she talked over me:
Her:  Well, I guess some young people think they're invincible -
Me:    I surfed alone this morning.
Her:   - and some older ones too.
It seems strange that she would think the ocean is such a scary place no one would dare go out alone. Sure, there are times when it wouldn't be prudent, but not all times. And today, despite the dearth of surf, I was content to float alone with my thoughts, enjoying sunshine on my face and the occasional fleeting company of low-flying pelicans.