01 January 2013

Aloha

It's almost time to point the Surfmobile south and begin a new chapter of my life in San Diego. Rocket and Nemo will be strapped to the roof, ready for a coat of warm(er) water wax. And thus ends my sojourn as a NorCal surfer girl. I'll miss my local breaks, especially the solitude of crisp dawn patrols in Half Moon Bay with only one or a few of my surfing buddies. (Although I fully expect that they'll come visit me.)
This also brings to a close the wave journal of a norcal surfer girl, since after a 500-mile drive down the state, I'll be transformed into a SoCal surfer girl. We'll live near the beach and I'll be surfing much more often, so blogging each session would become repetitive and tedious for both writer and reader. But my main reason for resigning from a non-lucrative stint in blogging is an oft-cited one: I want to spend more time with family. Hopefully on the warmer waves, if I can entice him in. Look for me in my new Roxy 3/2 in San Diego-area lineups (I'll finally get to surf Trestles!), on Twitter, and in occasional posts on The Inertia

Goodbye, NorCal. I'm leaving a piece of my heart behind and taking many salty and sand-encrusted memories with me. Keep warm and stay stoked!

31 December 2012

Bittersweet (HMB Jetty)

Fun backwashy waves under crisp sunny skies this morning at the Jetty. But I couldn't help feeling a little melancholy and pre-nostalgic. This was the last surf at my home break, and the last surf with my buddies, before the big move south. And also the last surf of 2012.
Luke, J-Bird and Marcia getting ready to paddle out
Waiting for waves
KOOK
Jacob pondering the meaning of life, the universe and everything
Surfline: Overlapping WNW swells are in the water today. Surf is a little slow this morning with the new swell filling in and a rising high tide. Still, better spots are in the head high range with standouts going a couple feet+ overhead on sets. Winds are light offshore and surface conditions clean. Buoy 46012: (Wave) SWELL: 5.9 ft at 19.0 s NW / WIND WAVE: 1.0 ft at 3.8 s WNW 117 / WVHT: 5.9 ft / APD: 7.9 s / MWD: 317° (Met) WSPD: 6 kn / GST: 8 kn / WVHT: 6.2 ft / DPD: 19.0 s / WDIR: 80° / ATMP: 51° F / WTMP: 53° F. Tide: 5' rising slightly to high.

27 December 2012

Moonrise (Cowells)

A strong current made it nigh impossible to get and stay where I needed to be on the fish, but a few fun waves and watching from the water as the full moon rose over the wharf made it worthwhile.
Surfline: Clean conditions through town with NW winds. Fun, consistent surf prevails with primary WNW swell and minor SW swell providing waist-head high waves at good spots and 1-2'+ overhead sets at standouts. Dropping tide. Buoy 46012: (Wave) SWELL: 9.8 ft at 13.8 s NW 116 / WIND WAVE: 4.9 ft at 6.7 s WNW / WVHT: 10.8 ft / APD: 8.2 s / MWD: 306° (Met) WSPD: 17 kn / GST: 21 kn / WVHT: 12.1 ft / DPD: 13.0 s / WDIR: 320° / ATMP: 52° F / WTMP: 55° F. Tide: negative low.

26 December 2012

More Surf Girl

More of the story from the graphic novel I started last summer with J-Bird. (The beginning is here.) 

 “Nerina! Nerina! Are you OK? Can you hear me?” The words were hitting my ears, faintly. This time when I opened my eyes, I saw Ava on her surfboard, stroking hard and fast in my direction and looking concerned. I lay draped across my board, and felt as if I had swallowed the sea.
~~~
By the end of the week I had thoroughly dried out from my ordeal and was itching to surf again. Neither Ava nor any of my other buddies could join me for a sunrise session, so I paddled out alone at my home break. The swell had faded to inconsistent waist-high pop-up peaks. After a few short rides, I waited in the quiet water for the next set and watched the sky turn from pink and orange to pale blue. A flock of pelicans flew low over the surface and a sea otter floated in the near distance. My hand traced an idle circle in the glassy ocean. Unexpectedly, the circle grew wider and stronger, expanding outward and rocking my board as I yanked my hand from the water. Whoa! What the --? When the surface calmed again, I stirred it tentatively, setting up a smaller vortex still vastly out of proportion to my little movement.

“Try it again. But this time, point your hand away.” I looked around startled. There was no one in sight, although the otter had moved closer. In fact, he was swimming directly at me, with a purpose. “Try, Nerina.” The voice was in my head. I pinched my cheek to wake myself from this dream, but it didn’t help.

Osred (illustrated by J-Bird)
The otter was only a few feet away when he stopped to regard me with intelligent eyes. I’d never had an otter come so close before; they are usually shy creatures who keep a deliberate distance when we surfers enter their liquid home. “Let me introduce myself. I am Osred, sent by Silas to help you understand your gift.”

“Silas?” I exclaimed. “But I thought -”

“That was all a near-drowning-induced hallucination?” Osred placed a paw on my board. “I assure you, Nerina, fantastic as it sounds, that was not a dream. Nor are you dreaming now. I am as real as you.” To emphasize his point, he reached out with his other paw and pressed his claws gently into the back of my hand.

“Ouch!” I pulled away, and he settled back into the water.

“See. Real. As are the powers Silas gave you.” Osred turned his gaze toward the curving south end of the bay. “Now, spin your hand in the water again, but point it toward those hills.”

My mind was reeling as an otter sent his thoughts into it, telling a fantastic telepathic tale, but I did as he bid me.

The water swirled around my fingertips, then rolled away as a small wave. I smiled, and spun my hand faster in a bigger circle. The wave grew to head-high, rising from the quiet water to peel off in the distance. I laughed aloud, and spun off an even bigger one that flew toward shore and crashed on the sand like thunder.

Osred clamped a paw on my board again and stared intently into my eyes. “This power is one of many bestowed by Silas, Prince of the Merfolk, in gratitude for your assistance to his beloved Cleodora, and in recognition of your kind and noble heart. Do not take it lightly; it is not a plaything.”

Three surfers were coming down the path to the beach, and Osred glanced at them warily. “I must go now, but we will talk soon. Be well, Nerina, until we meet again.” He turned away and dove into the murky depths, reappearing at a respectable distance. Osred floated on his back, nibbling on a clam, appearing to all the rest of the world as a normal otter.
~~~
After Osred left me, I refrained from making any more waves, conscious of the other surfers now in the water nearby. But I wondered what he was talking about when he said Silas gave me other powers. Discretely, I moved my hand over the surface of the sea and up. A column of water rose with it, then fell down as I lost concentration. I tried again, and this time gave it a push. The large splash made the other surfers turn and stare, so I looked nonchalant until they went back to searching the horizon for their next wave. It was all a little much to take in, so I rode a few waves myself before it was time to leave for work.
~~~
The break was crowded, and one aggro guy on an yellow shortboard was hogging the waves and sending out bad vibes to the rest of us surfers. Three times he snaked me, forcing me off of waves for which I was best positioned. I’d had enough. The next time, as he paddled in front of me and I backed off, I flicked my fingers in the water and the wave jacked up, steep and high. There was a look of surprise on his face as he missed the unexpected drop and went flying, his board shooting straight in the air as he tumbled and the lip crushed him down. I wasn’t the only one laughing at his wipeout, but I heard a single shrieky whistle behind me and turned to see an otter looking at me from farther out in the kelp. His look was intent and disapproving. “Use your powers for good and not ill, Nerina,” he spoke into my mind. I felt ashamed.
~~~
I had to tell someone; I just had to. And who else but my best buddy, Ava? We we surfing at our favorite point break. It was late afternoon but for some unknown reason the crowd was light, with no one in our near vicinity.

“C’mon, you’re kidding me.” Ever the skeptic, Ava wouldn’t believe without proof. So I made a little wave for her. “Awesome!” she exclaimed. “We won’t ever have to endure lulls or flat spells again. What else can you do?”

I smiled. “Well, the other day when I was trying to keep from drifting by hanging on to kelp, I discovered this.” I put my hand in the water, reaching toward a strand of kelp that was several feet away. It swung around toward me, and the leaves came into my waiting hand.

“Too cool!” Ava was impressed. “So what are you going to do with these powers, besides show off to your friends?”

Good question.
~~~
“Good. Hold it.” Osred was coaching me in how to control the water, as I kept a hundred droplets suspended in the air. “Now think of ice.” I did, and the droplets turned to hard crystals, falling into the sea as I dropped them in surprise. “Again,” he spoke in my mind.

This time, I raised the water with my hand, froze it, and held the crystals steady with a thought. As I envisioned icicles, they came together into sharp spears. “Throw them!” Osred commanded. I moved my hand away and like little missiles, they flew toward shore and pelted the sea. “Good!” He rolled onto his back and swam in a happy circle before stopping next to my surfboard.

Osred looked around to make sure we were still alone in the ocean in the early morning. “One more thing I will show you this day.” He put his paw on my arm and tugged. “Come with me.” I wasn’t sure what he had in mind, but slipped off my board into the sea. “Take hold of this kelp where I show you.” He dove under the water. I took a deep breath and followed, grasping a stalk of kelp just below the surface. Osred took my other hand and pulled it up into the air, then down across my face. A bubble of air pulled from above encircled my head. I needed to breathe and started to kick upward, but Osred held me down. “You can breathe here, Nerina. Try.” I really wanted to get up to the air, to see the sky, but he was surprisingly strong and kept me where I was. Tentatively, I took a tiny breath from the bubble, then a bigger one. As my respiration grew normal, Osred looked pleased. “For a child of the land, you are a quick learner.”
~~~
Seaglass Beach was notoriously dangerous to the unsuspecting, with strong rip currents. Surfers like them, of course, as they provide an easy route to the outside.

To be continued...

25 December 2012

Christmas Waves (Dunes/HMB Jetty)

Santa brought me a San Diego surf map and fun Christmas waves wrapped in sea foam and decorated with raindrops.
Marcia and her Christmas present
Marcia and Ian looking for waves
After seeing that there was not much going on at the Jetty, I met Marcia and Ian at Dunes. Ian had forgotten to load his surfboard but luckily Marcia had an extra one. The waves looked better from the beach - but at least we had it all to ourselves. I'd brought Nemo, not the best board choice as it turned out, so didn't bother to paddle to the outside where head-high+ waves were pitching mostly close-outs. Instead I sat inside and tried for mushy reforms that were surprisingly elusive. At last I caught the remains of an outside bomb that gave me a great ride. I hooted when I made the backside drop and swished into turns on the face as it reformed again and took me close to the beach.
In the shallows, threatening near head-high shore pound blocked my path back out. I decided to say goodbye to Dunes and return to the Jetty, which I expected would have gotten better on the falling tide. Marcia and Ian soon joined me.

There was a little crowd out the at the Jetty, from no one when I'd first checked it, but the waves had indeed improved although they were rather mixed up. We all got some fun rides there, though none of mine matched the hard-earned gem at Dunes. Stoked!
Surfline: Winds are light between storms this morning, but conditions remain a little jumbled up. Swell-wise we have fading/leftover WNW-NW swell and some modest/building new SW (200-210) groundswell on offer. Better exposed breaks are running shoulder to head high+, with some larger sets for top exposed spots running overhead+. Less tide helps. Buoy 46012: (Wave) SWELL: 5.6 ft at 10.8 s W 115 / WIND WAVE: 2.0 ft at 3.2 s SE 114 / WVHT: 5.9 ft / APD: 7.2 s / MWD: 273° (Met) WSPD: 19 kn / GST: 23 kn / WVHT: 5.9 ft / DPD: 11.0 s / WDIR: 150° / ATMP: 53° F / WTMP: 55° F. Tide: 4' falling to 2'.

20 December 2012

One More Cold One for the Road (Linda Mar)

As an unemployed surf bum, I've been avoiding dawn patrol, especially now that the weather has turned wintry. But last night I saw there might be a small window of decent surf ahead of the next blustery storm - Limited time offer! Act fast! - so I booked an early session with a buddy for added motivation. After all, I couldn't move south without at least one more cold one for the road.
Marcia was already in the water at Boatdocks when I arrived, taking her inaugural surf on her Christmas present, a new longboard with lollipop swirls of red and orange on the bottom. Right off the bat we rode a party wave together, and I knew it was going to be a good session. It wasn't too crowded (maybe one advantage of the cold) and there were lots of fun lefts with shoulders. I got a bunch of good rides, enough that I decided to go bold and try leading with my arms to initiate turns. Why am I not doing this already, you might ask? Well, sometimes it takes watching surf videos - in this case A Girl's Surf Addiction (boring surf porn) and The Surfer's Journal: Biographies: Greats of Women's Surfing (pretty good history of the pioneers) - to remind me of stuff my coach told me long ago. Anyway, it definitely speeds up turning but will take some practice to maintain control and not oversteer.

By the time I rode one in, my toes were froze and my fingers were so numb I had trouble turning the key in the car door lock. The offshore breeze was brisk and I shivered out of my wetsuit. But it was so worth it. Stoked!

Surfline: 3-4 ft + occ. 5 ft, fair conditions. Looking a little walled out on some of the bigger sets, but there are some decent corners to pick off. Clear skies with light offshore wind. Buoy 46012: (Wave) SWELL: 8.2 ft at 12.1 s WNW 113 / WIND WAVE: 5.3 ft at 7.1 s W / WVHT: 9.5 ft / APD: 7.1 s / MWD: 297° (Met) WSPD: 21 kn / GST: 25 kn / WVHT: 9.5 ft / DPD: 12.0 s / WDIR: 170° / ATMP: 54° F / WTMP: 56° F. Tide: Above 3' falling to about 2'.