04 March 2015

Short Glass

Fun little waves on the north side
I met up with Steve at Scripps for a shortboard session. We both thought the waves would be bigger, but the glassy, translucent water was lovely to surf on...
Paraglider drifting south from Torrey Pines
...while it lasted, anyway. Should've been there earlier, before the wind came up and the tide fell. Still fun though!
One benefit of surfing that section of La Jolla is that, in theory at least, the water should be cleaner than elsewhere after the rain. It's an Area of Special Biological Significance (ASBS), so direct discharge of stormwater runoff into the ocean is not allowed. It's only in theory because apparently Scripps Institution of Oceanography doesn't like to abide by that law.

26 February 2015

Marshmallow Morning

Although the waves were really soft, I had them all to myself for a while, until two guys came out. My best rides were a couple of rights; most waves lacked the energy to push me on my longest board. The dropping tide sucked the remaining life out of them until the three of us were forced to paddle in.
See the sea lion?
It was a chilly dawn patrol with frost on the cliff path. Flocks of pelicans flew like formations of landspeeders just above the surface of the sea. A small sea lion swam past, and another rested on the wide cobblestone beach, stretching her neck skyward to bask in the sun.

24 February 2015

Today I...

saw a guy get barreled
used a rip current to get to the lineup
got pulled up over the falls and pummeled
was surprised to see four other girls shortboarders
practiced duck-diving over and over on my 5'4" Spitfire
via the Surfline cam
watched sea gulls fly and thought about their sky trails
enjoyed the still warm water and the sun on my face
rode one long sweeet left with turns to the inside
was sucked out past the pier by a rip current
and felt totally in the moment and alive!

22 February 2015

San Diego GRO Skate Session #1

Deeba, Jordan, Melissa, Michele, me, V
A couple months ago, I contacted Girls Riders Organization to find out when they were going to hold a skate session in San Diego. Courtney told me none were planned and asked if I'd organize the first one. This morning was it. 
The nine other girls ranged in age from about 3 to over 50, and it was awesome to skate with them! V gave Melissa tips on dropping in, and she nailed it for the first time ever. Jordan, V, and Deeba skated with style and inspired the rest of us. A couple of newbie women in their thirties made slow circuits, gaining confidence and speed with each lap. And the teeny little girls are going to rip someday soon.
Wish I'd started that young
I confess I hadn't skated in more than a month, but it all came back to me, like riding a bike. Stoked on those concrete waves!

20 February 2015

Fishing for Small Waves

On a lark, I decided to take Nemo to Hennemans this morning instead of my go-to 6'2". I'd never ridden my short fish there before, but hey, why not try it?

The swell dropped a couple of feet since yesterday and the tide was rising fast to a 6' high. It was a challenge to get into the soft waves on the 5'4" and to drop in correctly when I managed it.
I'm glad I took Nemo, because the distinctive clownfish markings allowed @xzolian to spot me and say hi. Always nice to meet virtual people IRL.

Incrementally rising to the challenge, my wave-catching and riding got better as the session went on, culminating in a couple of nice lefts to finish. Those rides were all the sweeter for having to work so hard to earn them.

19 February 2015

Finding Nemo Again

I took my 5'4" fish out today for the first time in... I don't know how long, but it would be measured in months, not weeks. I've been riding 6'2" Rocket exclusively for quite a while.

Feeling lazy, I locked my bike at the top of the bluff above Pumphouse and walked up the beach to Tourmaline where the surf was a bit smaller and less closed-outy. I'd forgotten how much easier it is to get out on and manage a smaller board, although I timed it perfectly anyway to make it to the lineup with dry hair.

The first wave I caught was a right that tried to give me a wedgie. Not sure exactly what happened - probably didn't turn fast enough - but I got swept off my feet at the bottom and toppled backward into onrushing whitewater. Refreshing.

I redeemed myself on the next several lefts and scored long rides. Although there was a little crowd as always, many weren't catching much. Then a couple of wave hogs arrived and took every bump they could, even if it meant nearly running into me. I think I snuck in one more ride before they left, although by then the wind was up and the high tide had dropped fast to lower than the nearly flat-bottomed fish likes. A SUPer paddled by and said, "You found Nemo!" which made me smile.