31 March 2018

Smooth as Almond Butter

My awesome boyfriend got me a new surfboard! Firewire TimberTek Almond Butter, 6'0"x20.25"x2.75", 38.5L #stoked
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Firewire Almond Butter

13 December 2016

One December Day

A dolphin surfing in the face of an unbroken wave. My longboard gliding over countless shiny anchovies. Finding the flow to ride nearly to the beach; rinse and repeat. Sunshine on a December day. Stoked!

11 November 2016

The Female Titans of Mavericks

Finally, women will have the chance to compete at Mavericks. I wrote an article about it for Grind TV: These are the female Titans of Mavericks.

29 May 2016

South-Central Double Session and Moda Surfboard Demo

A quick trip down to SoCal gave me the chance to try a radical new surfboard design by Moda Surfboards. In a nutshell, it's a long bodyboard with a snowboard core.
Just before I left San Diego, I met with the designer and founder, Brenton Woo, at a Pacific Beach coffee shop. He showed me one of the early prototypes, a 4'10". This time, he brought a newer 6'0" too, sized for bigger surfers and also better for a small-wave day.
My best ride
In the early morning, I picked my way across the exposed cobblestones at Tourmaline and hopped on the surfboard as soon as the water was deep enough. It had nice glide and paddled fast, so I reached the lineup well ahead of Mike and Jessica.
Just before a wipeout
Alas, Brenton had not thought to bring a leash, so it there was more swimming and bodysurfing and less board surfing than I would've preferred in the short time I had available. I'd never surfed without a leash before and it requires a different mindset – taking fewer risks, grabbing for the board immediately – that didn't gel in a hour. Still, I caught one nice left with a lot of face to play on, and got in a few swishy turns on the twin-fin Moda board. Having experienced a little taste of what the surfboard could do, I'd definitely say it's worth a look if you're in the market for a new board and not afraid to step outside the box.
Swam almost all the way in chasing the board
After many hours on the road, Brad and I were back on the Central Coast in time to paddle out for my second session of the day in water that was ten degrees colder.
Back home on the Central Coast

05 May 2016


Hennemans served up fun longboard waves for my final San Diego surf before I move up the coast to start a new and better life. Mike, Thais and I had the break to ourselves, and the sea was glassy for much of the session. After surfing the cold ocean at Three Mile with Brad on Monday – and before that, skydiving! – the 62-degree water felt nice, even in my leaky old 4/3.
I rode a bunch of long, carvy lefts. Two were with Mike hooting behind me, party-wave style, including the last, last wave.

Last for a while, anyway. I'll be back to visit.

22 April 2016

Review: The Chawel Hybrid HD

Bonus: looking like a Jedi
When I reviewed the Chawel last summer, I concluded that it offered a nice 5-in-1 package (towel, neck pillow, blanket, sleeping bag liner, changing room) for those traveling light or with limited space in their gear bags. While it did nothing perfectly, it handled its multiple functions well with exceptional portability.

The company made improvements to the design and sent me a Hybrid HD Chawel to try out. This Chawel addresses minor complaints I raised in my original review. The side pocket is now big enough to stow it instead of using a separate included carry bag, although I couldn't zip the pocket closed. With a larger neck hole, I was able to change fully under the Chawel, slipping out of my swimsuit and into a T-shirt and shorts.

The back panel of the Hybrid HD is a thick fleecy material, making it more useful as a blanket and providing greater warmth while changing on chilly days. This Chawel is also longer, almost too long for me (I'm 5'3"), but that increases its utility as a blanket or sleeping bag/liner.

I had some concern that the large arm openings would enable passersby to glimpse more of me that I care to show in public, but my surf buddy assured me nothing private was visible.

The Hybrid HD Chawel is a step up, and it's now my changing room/towel of choice for surf trips.