Todd was the best shortboarder of the three of us, easily reaching the outside while Ashley and I struggled through walls of punchy whitewater. When we attained the lineup - empty but for Todd - of course there followed a noticeable lull in the waves. Ashley shared stories of her El Salvador surf trip with Fulcrum Surf. She's a goofyfoot too, and sought out lesser lefts in that land of renowned rights. One of the Spanish words she brought back was "cerrado" - closed - and many of today's waves were, especially as the tide dropped.
The swell is coming up and will be overhead tomorrow. I need to get out of my head and just surf.