Or, I Should've Been Here Earlier
I lingered over breakfast and yesterday's Sunday NY Times, arriving at the beach later than I should have. The waves near the pier were mostly thumping closeouts, but there were a few shoulders a bit farther north. I made the drop on a head-high left but my pleasure in that didn't last long as the wave detonated. I had to straighten out and bailed backward into the whitewater, which surely would've given me a wedgie if I hadn't been wearing a wetsuit. There were a few more drop-'n'-smashes as I scoured the horizon for one of those elusive faces and enjoyed the warm sunshine on another summery day.