While we were far south enjoying the sun, a winter storm hit Nor Cal and tore out a lot of the sand at the Jetty, exposing more clay and rocks than I've ever seen there. But it built some nice sandbars.
Unlike the clean, single-swell waves of Nica, the waves at the Jetty were jumbled and shifty as usual. No matter, it was good to get wet again after a week out of the water.
We stayed on the left for a little while, but regular-foot Luke wanted to hunt down rights, so we moved over to the main peak, where he found some. We both paddled for one wave, which he caught, and I did my damndest to back off and keep my board from hitting him as it was pulled forward, but I felt the nose contact something. He rode on though, and when I followed him inside, said it had just tapped his shin. Thankfully, Rocket has a nose guard, which lost some of its tip keeping him from greater injury.
If you surf with me as much as Luke, and are very patient, eventually I'll get a good video of you surfing:
Luke says my serial monogamy with surfboards (currently all Rocket, all the time) costs me waves, and indeed he rode more than I (in part because he's also a better surfer). But it's not just about wave count for me; if I get a few decent rides, or on difficult days, maybe just one good one, I'm satisfied. I need to be challenged though, and riding a more technically demanding board like my 6'2" fulfills that. For me, it's more meaningful, more stokeful, to get a good ride on my shortboard than to get several on a board that requires less effort and precision.
On the main peak, I blew a couple of head-high drops and got rolled. The cold water seems to tire me more than the tropics, where I stayed out for three hours (though other surf campers were doing 5-hour marathon sessions). And when I get tired, I make more mistakes. I got another rolly left, staying on the face and negotiating a slew of moguls in to the beach. Then Luke announced he was going in after one more, which brought on a long lull (jinx!) before we caught our last waves. A fun session!