04 March 2014

Waiting to Commit

I shouldn't have let that one go, I thought, as the wave formed into a nice head-high left and peeled on without me.

Back in the lineup, Steve said, "Man, that was the wave."

I shrugged. "I have commitment issues."

"I can see that."
Steve and I were surfing between Scripps and La Jolla Shores, at a spot I think is called Green Wall because it's walled up most of the time. It also seemed to be somewhat of a wave desert; I could see waves breaking to the north and south, but few came through where we were. And that's probably why it was less crowded, less clogged with UCSD students getting in a session before school.
Post-surf view from Mt. Soledad. Scripps pier is on the right.
The wait for any wave was long, and even longer for a wave that didn't close out. I was determined to commit, to just go for it, on the next one. That wave was similar to the lost left but breaking right, and this time I went, no holds barred. Woot! It was the biggest drop I've made in a while, with a short but sweet shoulder. I split the peak with Steve, and we were both smiling broadly as we aimed our boards back toward the horizon, paddling out with (unfulfilled) hope for more.


  1. Wish I found you guys. I was thinking about paddling out at The Wall. I should have!

    1. Sorry to miss you too! Although you didn't miss much there, wave-wise.

    2. I was watching green wall. It looked way better than where I was at. I should have just paddled over.