When Steve said he was dawn patrolling "with Pierre" this morning, I decided to join him at Ocean Beach, arriving just in time to meet him as he left the water. Freelancer dawn tends to be a wee bit on the late side.
"The ocean stirs the heart, inspires the imagination and brings eternal joy to the soul." - Wyland
06 February 2014
Surfing with Pierre
Since my buddy Steve (inexplicably) bought a house way inland, his home break is easy access near the end of the 8 freeway, at Ocean Beach's pier. He often texts me about surfing via voice recognition on his Android phone, which consistently hears "pier" as "Pierre" and "Cliffs" as "clips." That leads to conversations like this:
When Steve said he was dawn patrolling "with Pierre" this morning, I decided to join him at Ocean Beach, arriving just in time to meet him as he left the water. Freelancer dawn tends to be a wee bit on the late side.
The waves were fun and holding up more shoulder than at Crystal Pier lately. It seems like the sandbars are working better in OB right now. On the first wave I caught that wasn't an expected closeout, I was a bit surprised to see face and had to quickly remind myself to turn. Stoked!
When Steve said he was dawn patrolling "with Pierre" this morning, I decided to join him at Ocean Beach, arriving just in time to meet him as he left the water. Freelancer dawn tends to be a wee bit on the late side.
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