13 February 2014


South of Crystal Pier was the same as yesterday, only better: less crowd, less wind, and more swell.
This was my better session in a long time. I landed a late popup by getting to my feet a split second earlier than usual; I'll have to try that again. Best of all were two long lefts, with a smooth green wall rising beside me over chest high, and many turns and cutbacks on my fish before the nearshore finish. Stoked!
The stoked grin never left my face after the first great ride. As I walked north on the beach afterwards, other people smiled in response.

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