15 February 2014

Quick and Sweet

I had time for a quick session before the Surfing Arts, Science, and Issues Conference. Howard ended a ride on his longboard as I started across the burning cold sand and Jeff was about to put his Firewire Spitfire in the water. It was just the three of us on the north side of Crystal Pier, trading and sometimes splitting soft waves.

My friend Tracey says, "I’m okay only getting a few waves, so long as those waves are competently surfed." I totally agree. I caught three waves, rode them competently for the most part, and left satisfied as the fog rolled in.
A few miles north and several hours later, during a conference break

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