18 February 2014

Fat Tuesday

The waves were fat, shifty and hard to get into at North Garbage, even on my fish, but I was happy that my back's again up to making the long paddle out to the Sunset Cliffs reefs.
While Steve did better on his longboard, I rode a few waves from whitewater takeoffs and made it to the face on one for a couple turns before it fizzled. I also ended up on the wrong side of several set waves which sent me underwater for a hair longer than comfortable. The most interesting ride was on the second wave of a set; just as I started to pop up at the peak, the wave ran into a lump from its predecessor that flung me off Nemo and I ended up bodysurfing on my belly briefly before being rolled. 

I'm just not feeling the love from Garbage this season. But then, I have yet to surf South, either outside or at the Boil. And I may just take my floaty 6'2" next time, since I had a blast on it there last year.     

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