Commit

This morning I trekked to 15th Street in Del Mar to surf with 11 other San Diego Surf Ladies and coach Dan Mori of Fulcrum Surf. (Funny to call it a trek when it takes half an hour. That was my shortest commute time to the coast when we lived in the Bay Area, but it feels like a slog now that we're a few minutes from the beach.) The SDSL Club holds these Sport Sessions every month, alternating between beginners and intermediates.

I hung out with the other two shortboarders, my Tourmo buddy Kelly and a woman from north county named Lauren. And there were bonus dolphins!

My best waves were early in the session, when Dan wasn't watching; he only saw one where I dropped in late and landed with my front foot too far back, stalling the board. He did give me some good tips though. Pig-dog, he said, is best for pulling into a barrel; it causes the board to slow down so isn't ideal for general use on steep drops. For those, he suggested popping up quicker. I guess I'll have to tighten it up by a millisecond... somehow.

He also reiterated what I recall coach Barry in NorCal telling me (guess I'm a slow learner): commit. I need to Just Go For It, step on the gas with my front foot and charge. Yes. I do.