King of Tides

If I was prudent and not such a surf addict, I probably would take some time off from surfing after yesterday's back misery. Instead, since there is a slight chance of rain and a high chance of strong winds in the next couple days, I wanted to get in one more (hopefully redeeming) surf this morning.

It hasn't rained yet, but Tourmo is already posted for contaminated water. I drove on.

Under a new moon, today's king tide was about to top out at 7 feet, so I'd brought my fish. From the bluff at Law Street, I saw an enticing left, soft and fat on the tide. My first attempt at entry was denied so I walked a little farther south. The shorepoundy inside waves reminded me of Dunes in Half Moon Bay. C'mon, get in quick and paddle like hell to get through. Success! There was a lot of water moving around, strong currents, shifty waves, punchy hold-downs.

Fairly soon I caught my wave of the day, a 5-6' left with a smooth ramp. Stoked!