19 January 2014

House of Cards

Surf's rising up! This morning was probably the last time with any waves under head-high in San Diego for the next week or so. My back continues to trouble me, not just with pain but with weakness. It feels like a house of cards that could collapse if I push it too hard. So I won't be charging any of those well-overhead waves that are forecast. While I could talk myself through my normal trepidation, right now I lack the confidence that my body is physically up to the challenge.
From my pre-parking surf check, I thought the corner right next to the pier might be a good spot for fun-size waves, but as I started down the stairs, a 6-foot closeout set rolled through and I wanted no part of that action. I walked north a bit and found an easier paddle-out between the pier's left and the next sandbar's right. It seems that maybe, just maybe, my duck-dives are getting better. I didn't have any disaster dives today.

The bigger waves were mostly closed out, and the smaller ones hard to get into on the rising tide. I didn't fight the northward drift long and the current finally let me go almost at Law Street, about 4 blocks away. An older dude and I exchanged pleasantries until his buddy called from the inside, and we saw him waving the nose of his broken longboard, still attached by the deck. Oh, no!
I was cautious in my wave choice, riding only three in less than a hour. Two closed out immediately while the third, a fast shoulder-high left, gave me a flash of facetime before sectioning. I'll take that stoke!

On my long walk back, I saw a couple guys get almost barreled. The big surf and the skilled surfers riding it will be fun to watch this week, even though I'll have to find smaller waves for myself somewhere else.
What is the greatest thing you have learned in your life? Well, in regards to surfing, I’ve learned that there is always another wave coming. Translated that means there is always tomorrow. (Gerry Lopez on Liquid Salt)

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