29 January 2014

Not Ready

I was nervous on the way to surf Garbage at Sunset Cliffs this afternoon, and not just because the waves would be overhead. I wasn't sure my back was ready for the long paddle out to the peak, plus the constant repositioning in the lineup and duck-diving of outside set waves. Alas, it was not.
Staying out just long enough to say "hi" and "bye" to Steve, I managed to catch a broken overhead wave partly to the inside, after watching a shortboarder slash and burn it. Now I'm drowning my physical and psychic pains in a big glass of pinot grigio.

I can't go on, I'll go on. -Samuel Beckett

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