24 January 2014

Sneaker Sesh

When I woke up this morning and saw that the swell at the Mission Bay buoy had only recently jumped up to 4.6 ft at 22s, I didn't dally over breakfast and made it to the beach to sneak in another surf before the swell fills in and it gets too crazy.
There were looong lulls between sets of waves up to head high. My best ride was a chest-high right. It didn't hold a face for long but partly reformed and I had fun turning off the sections. Score!
When I left the water, an old longboarder pointed to my Timbertek Firewire and asked "Did you find that piece of wood on the beach?" Ha ha.

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