23 January 2014

A Break in the Crazy

Winter came into California with a roar. We're having a little break of fun-size surf today before it jacks up again to possibly double-overhead. The Maverick's contest will run tomorrow, and I may head down to Tijuana Sloughs to watch big-wave surfing.
Kelly was already in the water when I paddled out but she had to leave soon after. I rode a few fun little waves on my shortboard north of the pumphouse before belly-boarding in to where Steve was warming up on the sand next to his yum-yum yellow longboard. That's surfing in shifts.

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