27 January 2014

Kelly Says

There's a dynamic duo in the UK, Hannah Bristow and Dannie MacLellan, who are making a series of surf videos based on doing what Kelly says:
You have to surf all kinds of waves (including the crappy ones) to improve. -Kelly Slater
Although this morning's surf with Ian and Todd didn't start out as a KSS session, it rapidly turned into one. The guys came in and intercepted me on the sand before I paddled out to join them at Scripps, where the closeouts were plentiful and large, and we walked back to La Jolla Shores for less threatening waves.
Within ten minutes the ocean became choppy, and the waves were lumpy, dumpy and bumpy. I caught some on my shortboard but didn't manage any full rides, mostly just drops into closeouts that swept me off my feet, plus assorted other takeoff wipeouts. I saw Todd score a nice right on a wide shortboard he'd borrowed from Ian. "It only takes one to make the session!" he said, smiling. With the wind rising and the chop getting choppier, we decided to catch a wave in. That was my best of the day - a belly ride to the sand.

But you know what Kelly says...

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