Today I journeyed south to Santa Cruz to surf on the eastside and watch the O'Neill Cold Water Classic on the westside. The ocean is at its warmest now, 62°F/16°C per the strip thermometer on my surfboard, not really cold at all. And to top it off, we're having a late-season heat wave so the air was 80°F/26°C. They should hold the contest in January to better fit the name.
The eastside was dismayingly crowded for the middle of a weekday. As I'd snagged the last open parking space at the Hook, I was loathe to leave to check Capitola. I asked the usual question of a surfer returning to her car next to mine, and she said, "Not very good. The Point actually looks a lot better."
Blurry surfer, blurry otter |
Oh, what a beautiful day! |
Another wave came close behind it and I rode energetic whitewater farther in till it fizzled out, paddling over the deep section to exit at the new stairs. Then I had a long walk back to my car along the cliff top, the blue bay below sparkling in the warm sunshine.
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Over on the westside at Steamer Lane, the last heat of the day was underway. (Too bad I just missed Kelly Slater's heat; maybe I shouldn't have stopped for my surfer's lunch of a vegan donut from Whole Foods.) Matt Wilkinson (red jersey), Adriano De Souza (black), and Damien Hobgood (yellow) were in the water. I politely squeezed up to the fence, climbed over and even found a spot on a bench next to the stairs.Damien Hobgood and Adriano De Souza |
Matt Wilkinson, the winner of the heat |
Not that warm |
Surfline: NW-WNW (290-310) swell holds the most size through the morning, before slowly easing later in the day, and mixes with minimal Southern Hemi energy. Better exposed breaks are running chest-shoulder-head high+, with sets in the 1-2'+ overhead range at good breaks. Standout focal points are even a notch better on the best sets. Conditions are nice and clean. Buoy 46026: (Wave) SWELL: 5.9 ft at 10.8 s WNW 98 / WIND WAVE: 2.0 ft at 5.6 s WNW / WVHT: 6.2 ft / APD: 7.9 s / MWD: 297° (Met) WSPD: 10 kn / GST: 14 kn / WVHT: 6.6 ft / DPD: 11.0 s / ATMP: 64° F / WTMP: 58° F. Tide: Just under 4' rising to 4'.
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