The crowd thinned as the sun got lower in the sky, until we had the spot almost to ourselves. I shared converging waves with Luke, as he went right on a 1st peak wave and I went left at 2nd peak, so we met in the middle. I had some nice rides, landing a few challenging drops. (I'm loving the drop now, although I'm craving bigger ones; as Darren told me, "welcome to the next level of addiction.") I got "barreled" too - or more like barrel-rolled - when I missed a drop and got three-sixtied over the falls while lying on my board, surfacing to the cheers of my buddies.
There were a lot of jellies on the beach but none in the water
Surfing is always better with friends. Especially when they go right and I go left.
Sunset over Pillar Point
Surfline: Mainly sloppy NW windswell in the water today with easing SSW groundswell for 3-4'+ surf at the well exposed breaks. Standout NW and combo breaks pull in some plus sets. Buoy 46012: NW 6.9 ft @ 9.1 sec.
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