29 June 2010

Sunset with Friends (HMB Jetty)

When I checked the break from beside the road, I found myself missing Sunday. Wave size had dropped to shoulder-high and below with worse form and a light chop from an onshore breeze, but there was still a crowd at the Jetty. Figuring it was still the best surf on offer this evening, I paddled out with Luke and Nikki joined us. It turned out to be surprisingly fun, better than it looked from the shore. It's always a good session when you lose track of how many waves you've ridden.
The crowd thinned as the sun got lower in the sky, until we had the spot almost to ourselves. I shared converging waves with Luke, as he went right on a 1st peak wave and I went left at 2nd peak, so we met in the middle. I had some nice rides, landing a few challenging drops. (I'm loving the drop now, although I'm craving bigger ones; as Darren told me, "welcome to the next level of addiction.") I got "barreled" too - or more like barrel-rolled - when I missed a drop and got three-sixtied over the falls while lying on my board, surfacing to the cheers of my buddies.

There were a lot of jellies on the beach but none in the water
Surfing is always better with friends. Especially when they go right and I go left.
Sunset over Pillar Point

Surfline: Mainly sloppy NW windswell in the water today with easing SSW groundswell for 3-4'+ surf at the well exposed breaks. Standout NW and combo breaks pull in some plus sets. Buoy 46012: NW 6.9 ft @ 9.1 sec.

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