04 July 2010

Independent Day (HMB Jetty)

I was on my own surfing this morning since the others in my little posse bailed, and was surprised that for a time I had the break all to myself. Seeking to beat the holiday masses, I'd scurried over the hill early, but the anticipated crowds had not materialized. Whether everyone was sleeping late on a Sunday, getting ready for their barbecues, watching the World Cup or just waiting for the hyped south swell to show, I don't know, but I wasn't complaining that the crowd on my peak maxed out at 3. I enjoyed the relative solitude in the sunshine until the fog rolled in.
Although the waves were lumpy, dumpy, sloppy, and choppy, I had a little fun and got some interesting rides in the mixed-up surf. The infrequent head-high set waves were mostly closed out but I managed to ride that beast a couple of times, though it more often threw me. Most of my good rides, with short but sweet shoulders, came near the start of the session, and I spent the last cold half hour trying to get just one more. When I tried to paddle over a breaking wave and ended up riding it backwards on my belly halfway to the beach, I decided that was the last one, and walked the rest of the way to shore on numb feet. A little light stoke, and tomorrow is another day. Maybe the lauded south swell will grace us with its presence.

Surfline: Mainly NW windswell in the water this morning as a new SSW groundswell slowly builds in through the day. Well exposed NW breaks are in the 3-5' range while the more sheltered spots are smaller. New SSW swell is inconsistent but offering up occasional waist-chest high sets already at the top Southern hemi breaks, with larger sets expected through the afternoon. Light winds prevailed early for mainly clean conditions as well. Buoy 46012: NW 7.5 ft @ 9.1 sec.

No comments:

Post a Comment