27 June 2010

Overhead! (HMB Jetty)

Today I surfed the biggest wave of my life (so far). Luke was heading back to the lineup and saw me take a wave that was a foot and a half over my head. When I paddled for it I wasn't expecting it to be that big, but as I popped to my feet a huge drop opened before me - and I made it! I did a backside bottom turn and rode the fast wave briefly until it exploded in whitewater. WOOOO HOOOO!!!!
The south groundswell sets hitting the Jetty at about 10 minute intervals formed sizable waves, with smaller ones from the NW windswell interspersed in the lulls. I went over the falls once on one of those bigger waves, falling through watery air with my eyes closed for what seemed a long time. I'd thought about taking my neglected shortboard, but happily went out on my Magic 8'3" instead, catching a handful of rides. As I went for one of the set waves, Luke's encouragement to "Paddle hard. Harder!" made me dig a little deeper a little longer, and he watched me disappear on the drop - another overhead wave!

But it was not so big as the last of the day, my epic huge drop. STOKED!!! I'm still tingly and can't stop smiling. 

Surfline: Modest NW windswell was our primary source of surf today, although there was also a pretty good size Southern Hemisphere SSW swell building. The better breaks to either direction were in the 3-4' range, with some plus sets to head high at standouts. Buoy 46012: SSW 6.9 ft @ 16 sec, NW 6.2 ft @ 8.3 sec.

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