wave journal of a surfer girl: Twofer (Manresa & The Hook)

11 June 2010

Twofer (Manresa & The Hook)

On a rare weekday off, I rode a few fast and powerful shoulder- to head-high lefts at Manresa (woot!)...

...then caught a bunch of easy smaller rights at the Hook. Stoked!

Surfline: WNW wind/groundswell mix tops out as old SSW energy lingers in the background. Conditions are semi-clean across the region with most breaks running in the knee-thigh-waist high zone. Standouts pull in a few chest-shoulder high sets at times. Buoy 46012: NW 7.2 ft @ 10 sec.

3 comments:

Dr Mad FishJune 11, 2010
Nice....looks warm too. It was 1 degree Celcius here 2 days ago. Brrrr.....but the water was still quite warm for yesterday's surf.
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CynthiaJune 12, 2010
Aside from the damp chill of a brief passing fog bank, the air was pleasantly warm, and thankfully the upwelling of cold deep water has ended. Supposed to be hot today, about 26C.
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Dr Mad FishJune 13, 2010
Wow, we had about 20C and it's winter :)) But it has been a lot colder.
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Dawn at the beach. Air almost 50 degrees, water slightly warmer. Full moon hanging over the ocean, sun rising from the hills. Swell gently lifting my surfboard a little closer to the sky as it passes by on its way to touch the beach. Icy water trickling down the front of my wetsuit. Feet going numb from the cold despite neoprene booties and thermal socks. Two dolphins in the lineup chase silver fish, who leap into the air in a swirling mass, sparkling in the first rays of the sun. Then "pwwwfff!" as another dolphin surfaces and exhales not a dozen feet from me, before gracefully sliding back under the water. What a great way to start the day!