Rocket on Top and Fish Inside (HMB Jetty)

My MINI Cooper was loaded for possibilities today, with my 6'2" shortboard Rocket strapped to the roof and my 5'3" fish Nemo tucked inside. Luke surf-checked the Jetty before me and on his advice I took out the fish, though the waves looked a bit steep when I paddled out. I've only surfed Nemo on Lindamush and softer waves at Capitola, but thought I'd see how it went. I rode a nice right straight away, which set expectations too high for the session.

When I asked Luke if he wanted to try Nemo, he said yes. He's a big guy and totally sank the board. It took him a wave or two before he stood and rode whitewash, and he said it was like surfing on a McDonald's tray. Hah! Meanwhile I tried for a few on Luke's 6'8" custom Coffey. I caught a couple but pearled - too much unaccustomed extra length, at almost a foot and a half longer than Nemo. I think the 3rd time would've been a charm but he wanted his board back. 

View from the fish

Luke and his Coffey

Luke introduced me to a guy he knew, and later I got to chatting with a dude who recognized me from a local Meetup group. Unfortunately conditions deteriorated as time passed. I'm not sure exactly why, since the tide was coming up slowly and there was little wind. The waves were lully and shifty, and I had trouble being in position and making the walled-up drops. Although I thought about going back to the car for Rocket, I didn't want to cut into my surf time since I had a deadline to meet up with Scott. Maybe the shortboard would've been a better choice, but I'll have to find out another day.

This morning I was going for more waves, trying to subscribe to BD's philosophy:

My new motto is "fuck it".  I have this new attitude where I'm going to paddle for a wave even if I'm late and not be pissed if I make it or not.  A quarter of the time I get hammered, and the other third has been straight up fun!  

That approach meant more wipeouts, including one that spun me 360° lengthwise. The rest of my waves were closeouts or whitewatery, nothing matching the first ride or the past two sessions, although I got a semi-decent wave in. Still looking for that straight-up fun!

For now, I'm content with my one good ride, sharing a surf with friends old and new, and spending time in the ocean on another lovely fall day.

One of my whitewatery rides, photo by Luke

Surfline: A mix of primary/holding SSW groundswell and secondary/easing short-mid period NW swell continues this afternoon. Many of the better breaks of the region offer surf within the 3-4' zone, while standout summer spots and combo spots produce occasional waves/peaks up to head high. Buoy 46026: (Wave) SWELL: 3.9 ft at 16.0 s SSW 84 / WIND WAVE: 1.0 ft at 4.0 s W / WVHT: 4.3 ft / APD: 7.9 s / MWD: 208° (Met) WSPD: 6 kn / GST: 8 kn / WVHT: 4.3 ft / DPD: 16.0 s / ATMP: 56° F / WTMP: 56° F. Tide: Less than 3.5' rising over 3.5'.