Choosing my usual spot near the creek mouth, I was rewarded with a few short shoulders and a bunch of closed-out and whitewatery rides, once I adjusted to the extra length of my 6'2" shortboard over yesterday's 5'4" fish and stopped tripping over those additional inches. Just enough stoke to keep me smiling!
"The ocean stirs the heart, inspires the imagination and brings eternal joy to the soul." - Wyland
15 October 2012
Down Low (Linda Mar)
Whereas (I used to be a lawyer, so I have to use that word sometimes) yesterday I surfed at an undesirably high tide, today remodeling chores forced me out at an unfortunately low one. So I set my expectations suitably low and enjoyed the warm sunny weather.
Choosing my usual spot near the creek mouth, I was rewarded with a few short shoulders and a bunch of closed-out and whitewatery rides, once I adjusted to the extra length of my 6'2" shortboard over yesterday's 5'4" fish and stopped tripping over those additional inches. Just enough stoke to keep me smiling!
Surfline: 3-4 ft, occ. 5 ft, fair conditions; mostly clean but pretty sectiony and walled out with just short sections to pick off. Mid period West swell combines with some longer period WNW and new SW southern hemi swell today. Skies have finally cleared up to reveal chest-head high waves and overhead sets at the more exposed spots. Winds are staying light right now so surface conditions are mostly clean and the tide is dropping. Buoy 46026: (Wave) SWELL: 5.6 ft at 14.8 s WNW 90 / WIND WAVE: 2.3 ft at 4.3 s WNW / WVHT: 6.2 ft / APD: 7.7 s / MWD: 282 (Met) WSPD: 14 kn / GST: 17 kn / WVHT: 5.6 ft / DPD: 15.0 s / ATMP: 58° F / WTMP: 58° F. Tide: Less than 3' falling quickly to 0'.
Choosing my usual spot near the creek mouth, I was rewarded with a few short shoulders and a bunch of closed-out and whitewatery rides, once I adjusted to the extra length of my 6'2" shortboard over yesterday's 5'4" fish and stopped tripping over those additional inches. Just enough stoke to keep me smiling!
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