10 October 2012

Thunder (Capitola)

My first surf lesson, in the summer of '03 on a waterlogged 10-foot foamie in Cocoa Beach, Florida, was cut short by a thunderstorm. That was after I'd stood up on the board and ridden a few tiny waves - after I'd been hooked on the feeling and reborn as a surfer. My instructor and I ran through pouring rain and growing puddles back to his shop, lightning flashing scarily close and loud thunder booming from an angry sky.
So when rare California thunder rumbled while I was in the water at midday, I well knew that I should head in lest I become a target for the lightning that accompanied it. Yet I saw no flashes, and rationalized paddling back out for just one more wave. And then one more, and another, seeking a better ride. After all, lightning would be attracted to the highest point, and there were sailboats, janitors and taller surfers in the vicinity. Riiiight...
I bagged some fun rides on Nemo, mostly long reform scraps scavenged from the wavehogs on the main peak, but one clean green left (which sadly ended prematurely when I dug my inside rail trying to get fancy). I surfed until the time ran out on my parking meter, reluctantly accepting that my last wave wouldn't be anything special as low tide served up mostly closeouts. Tomorrow is another day!
Surfline: Inconsistent but fun size, long period WNW groundswell fills in through the day offering up chest-head high waves at well exposed spots. Standout breaks that focus the longer period energy produce 2-3'+ overhead sets. Also some small, fading SSW swell mixing in with occasional knee-waist high sets. Buoy 46026: (Wave) SWELL: 3.9 ft at 19.0 s WNW 87 / WIND WAVE: 2.0 ft at 4.2 s WNW / WVHT: 4.3 ft / APD: 6.3 s / MWD: 286° (Met) WSPD: 10 kn / GST: 14 kn / WVHT: 4.6 ft / DPD: 19.0 s / ATMP: 57° F / WTMP: 57° F. Tide: Falling slightly to 2.5' low.
Post-surf rainbow on the Westside

1 comment:

  1. Great pictures! I almost... almost drove south today.