29 October 2012

Think (Linda Mar)

Linda Mar made me work for waves today. I paddled out at the north end where the waves were up to shoulder-high+ and actually had some occasional shoulders amidst the closeouts, but it was tiring slogging through punchy whitewater to the outside. Once there, I kept Beanstalk's observations from yesterday's session firmly in mind, remembered to start my turn higher on the face, and rode three solid short lefts on Rocket in half an hour. Score!
Sufficiently stoked and not inclined to fight my way back out, I decided I was done when an outside set wave I tried to dive under picked me up and threw me into the air and then against the bottom. Another shortboarder reached the beach just before me, looking frowny. "It's all closeouts. It's not surfable," he groused. Hmm. Must not be from around these parts if he expected different. "Yeah, barely," I replied, thinking of my rides and smiling on the inside.

Surfline: Still some dense fog lingering around the region (especially through OB) as a primary WNW swell holds over top of some small SW swell. Good winter spots are in the waist-head high+ range with onshore winds staying relatively light overall. Buoy 46026: (Wave) SWELL: 4.3 ft at 12.1 s W 95 / WIND WAVE: 1.3 ft at 3.6 s WNW / WVHT: 4.6 ft / APD: 6.9 s / MWD: 266° (Met) WSPD: 6 kn / GST: 8 kn / WVHT: 4.6 ft / DPD: 12.0 s / ATMP: 53° F / WTMP: 57° F. Tide: 3' falling quickly to 2'.

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