Rainbow over Pacifica on the drive in |
First I tried toward the north end, where I spied some lefts rolling through. Alas, that breeze was blowing straight at me as I tried to take off, catching the wide nose of the fish and stalling the board while the waves passed me by. (Based on the report from Surflie - "n" omitted intentionally - the fish had seemed the best choice, but I should've put Rocket in the car too as I surely would've swapped boards, especially as the waves got steeper on the falling tide.) I must confess I'm still mystified as to why, as a surfer, I'm supposed to love offshores. I know the theory, that the help to hold the wave shape. Yet so many times they inhibit rather than enhance my surfing experience; they're such a rare occurrence around here that I haven't figured out the trick to taking off against the wind.
Since the north end wasn't giving me much joy, I hit the beach and walked south a ways. But that wasn't a good fit either. Boatdocks on the far south was next to flat, and in between was mostly closing out as the tide dropped, so I took up station north of Taco Bell. Then it seemed an eternity before I caught another right.
Arrgh, methinks the north end was better. This time I walked the beach father, closer to the rocky cliff that bookended the strip of sand, before re-entering the water a small distance from a tight pack of a dozen surfers guarding the northernmost peak. The inconsistent set waves were bigger here, up to head-high, and I found myself dealing with a little fear that kept me from making the final commitment to push over the edge as the lip crumbled. On the next one, you Go For It! I told myself. I resolved to throw over that lip next time no matter what, and I did, getting to my feet before wiping out. A long lull later, I found a right that let me drop in and took me halfway to the beach. I watched a surf coach video on laybacks yesterday and surprised myself by making a part of that move (which is beyond my abilities), crouched low and leaning back over the turbulence, sure I would fall, yet somehow pulling myself over the board to upright. Whitewater belly rides got me the rest of the way to the sand, a little frustrated that nothing much seemed to fit but glad of my few short rides and incremental steps on the path to being a better surfer.
Shark at the south end of Linda Mar |
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