25 July 2010

Just Me & My Crew (Rachel's Point)

This morning Luke, Manabu, Steve and I had "Rachel's Point" all to ourselves, which made the session even more fun. The waves were inconsistent and again shifty but less scary-powerful than the last time, so today I tried to position myself in the short takeoff zone.

For a little while I was kooking it up. As I took a drop, I got distracted by a rock boil in the shallow water under my board's nose. So what did I do? I fell on it! Then I did a split on a cock-eyed landing, fortunately without injurious results. And Luke almost ran me over once (guess the red helmet isn't attention-getting enough). But then I got dialed in and things turned fun. I rode several fast lefts with fun drops, one head-high and another half a foot over my head (by Luke's estimate).

Luke's wife Beth took some video from the beach early on, and didn't get my best rides (it seems those are never recorded, except in memory).
I almost got a three-fer video with all of the guys riding in succession: Luke on a wave, then Manabu on the next... but Steve didn't catch the third one.
After an hour and a half, the rising tide started to kill the waves, so we called the session and paddled in. On the way I caught an interesting wave: as I started the drop, it broke on both sides of me, whitewater meeting in the middle when I reached the bottom. But hey, at least I caught one in!

Surfline: New SSW (180-200) energy fills in today, mixing with old SSW (190-205) swell and minor NW windswell. Expect inconsistent surf in the knee-chest high range early on, with bigger sets showing later today. Generally light wind on tap right now. Buoy 46012: SSW 3.6 ft @ 13.8 sec.

1 comment:

  1. Shifty waves for sure. And rocks! Bugger that. Yes, it is so frustrating that your best rides are never recorded - every time there is any footage of me it is small. The days when I manage a good drop and carving bottom turn, then scoot down the line are rare indeed, and no one is watching. But hey, nice sized waves and you had it all to yourselves......at least there were some take-offs.