18 July 2010

Gloveless (HMB Jetty)

Dunes was blown out already by the time the tide came back up in the early afternoon, so Luke and I joined the masses at the Jetty, where at least the strong breeze was sideshore. The sun was shining, the parking lot was packed, and the sea was warm, close to 60 degrees F (15C). Luke was trunking it again, wearing only board shorts and a neoprene vest, so I decided to leave my gloves in the car. My hands were freezing at first, but it's like walking barefoot at the ocean's edge: you do get used to it after a little while. I liked it, think I'll do it again.
I managed to video Luke on a couple of waves as I was heading back out. Once in the lineup, Luke was about to introduce me when he took off on a wave, so Tom paddled over to say hello. It's always nice to meet one of the Tweeple in the real world, and interesting that while surfing with friends, as in no other social situation, it's perfectly acceptable to abruptly leave during a conversation.
Yet again, despite less than ideal conditions, my Magic surfboard did not disappoint. I had a good wave count with some really fun rides, mostly rights with a couple lefts. One fast right had me "woo-hoo!-ing down the line. Stokeful fun in the sun!

Surfline: Textured, crumbly surf in the waist-chest high range on tap this afternoon. Top breaks see a few larger sets on occasion, but shape stays pretty poor. Westerly wind around 10kts keeps things pretty ugly overall. Buoy 46012: NW 6.2 ft @ 8.3 sec.


  1. I get cold easy, but I only wear gloves in the middle of winter. I don't like having the extra weight on my hands (especially if the gloves get full of water).

  2. It's a lot easier to work the controls on my camera without them, too.