It was supposed to be nearly flat today. From the forecasts and reports, I was expecting weak knee- to waist-high waves. Still, since the winds were light, I thought I'd check some of the exposed beaches. In fact, Kelly was offering punchy and not quite head-high waves periodically.
Sadly, there was this backwashy thing going on; probably the tide was too high (3' rising to 4') for the available swell. Far too often, I'd see a wave start to wall up nicely, but then a fast-moving backwash would run past me from the shore to meet up with the wave and sap its form and energy. Or I'd catch a wave, pop up and then watch it merge with the backwash into an unsurfable mound.
I did get one nice left though - it was fast and fun! And for my last wave in, I caught a right, popped up and wiped out spectacularly, tumbling ass-over-teakettle nearly to the beach. I exited the shorepound coated in sand, like a cold wet serving of shake-n-bake, but with a smile.
Surfline: Small again this morning as NW windswell combines with weak S/SW energy. Most areas see inconsistent knee-waist high surf, while top breaks occasionally go bigger. It's generally rideable out there, just not all that great. Light wind, overcast skies. Buoy 46012: S 3.9 ft @ 11.4 sec, NNW 3.9 ft @ 7.7 sec.
Nothing like a good wipeout to keep you honest!!
ReplyDelete(I love that bottom photo by the way)
Yeah, the ocean has ways to keep you humble!
ReplyDeleteI just had to set my board down and take a pic with all those wildflowers. Too soon, they'll be gone.