31 July 2010

The Grass is Always Greener... (Hook/38th/Pleasure Point)

...and the waves are always better at the next break. This morning I started at the Hook, and got a few fun rights.
When Nikki arrived at about low tide, we paddled west to 38th Ave, where it was looking more consistently fun - and turned out to be so in fact. There were plenty of waves to be had, both rights and short lefts. I got my best wave of the day, an outside right that I worked through a sluggish section to an inside reform for a long ride.

Nikki waiting for a wave at 38th Ave

By the time Nikki left, 38th was crowded and Pleasure Point was beckoning with unridden waves, so westward ho! Some head-high sneakers were coming through at 1st Peak. Although I pulled off a quick ride with a decent drop, the peak was shifty with a short takeoff zone and greedy shortboarders.
I paddled back to 2nd Peak, where I got a few more waves, cursing the thick kelp that cut the rides short by stopping my fins. Wave by wave, I worked my way east toward the 38th Ave stairs, where I caught an inside right to the beach. Stoked!

Surfline: Glassy, inconsistent little lines. Clean but weak overall. Small SSW (185-200) energy fades as new SSW (195-205) Southern Hemi swell slowly builds through the day. Things start off pretty slow with generally waist high and below surf. Top southerly exposures see a rare +. Look for a bit more size/consistency as we move into the afternoon. Clean conditions early thanks to light/variable morning wind. Buoy 46012: NW 6.2 ft @ 9.1 sec.


  1. Nice you got some good rides. We need to plan a surf trip to San Onofre, it was amazing!

  2. I'd love to try San Onofre sometime; it sounds great. But that's a looong drive.

  3. Hey nice. Yeah, those greedy shortboarders. Grrr....
    Do you guys wear leashes in that kelp? I guess not.....?

  4. Yes, most everyone wears a leash. IMO it would be irresponsible to go without at such crowded spots.

  5. 38th is great when a nice south swell rolls in.
    The kelp will get ya though on a really low tide.
    I would like to add greedy long board old dudes to your greedy short boarders! AP