19 May 2010

South Shore Stoke (Canoes)

On a gorgeous sunny afternoon in paradise, I rented an 8'2" NSP from Moku (only $14 for 2 hours) and carried it a block to the beach, past the statue of Duke Kahanamoku, to the warm inviting waters of Waikiki.
What followed was surely one of my best surf sessions ever. It was crowded like a tropical Cowells, but not too crowded. Also like Cowells, there were many beginners who were imitating buoys and letting waves pass unridden. I found a clear slot and caught wave after wave, mostly lefts, long rides that shifted as they passed over different sections of the reef. I could really feel what the wave wanted me to do to keep riding, and the NSP was a good vehicle, turning with a thought to follow the wave. STOKED!!!

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