The waves were a little more closed out than yesterday but I got countless fun rides, and Scott caught a nice left down the line. It was hard to force myself to come in when my two hours were nearly up. I squeezed in just one more, and then another that took me through a surf school and close to shore. I'll miss the warm water, consistent fun waves, and island aloha. But the stoke goes on!
21 May 2010
Sharing the Stoke (Canoes)
On our last morning in Hawaii, Scott joined me for the first half of a two-hour session. Since Koa doesn't open until 10 am (I guess they dawn patrol every day), we got surfboards from Moku, which starts renting at 6:30. Once again the 8'2" NSP was already claimed, but they had an 8'6" NSP for me and a 9'0" for Scott.
The waves were a little more closed out than yesterday but I got countless fun rides, and Scott caught a nice left down the line. It was hard to force myself to come in when my two hours were nearly up. I squeezed in just one more, and then another that took me through a surf school and close to shore. I'll miss the warm water, consistent fun waves, and island aloha. But the stoke goes on!
The waves were a little more closed out than yesterday but I got countless fun rides, and Scott caught a nice left down the line. It was hard to force myself to come in when my two hours were nearly up. I squeezed in just one more, and then another that took me through a surf school and close to shore. I'll miss the warm water, consistent fun waves, and island aloha. But the stoke goes on!
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