25 February 2010

Bye-Bye Boardie (HMB Jetty)

As I stared down a four-foot cliff from the top of a closeout, I knew it was unlikely I'd land the drop. A brief thrashing later, I surfaced without that familiar tug on my ankle, and saw my Magic board receding as the waves pushed it toward the riprap wall. I felt bereft, so small and alone in the wide ocean.
It was only the second time my leash has ever come undone. The first time my surf buddy Dwayne was there to help me retrieve my wayward surfboard. This time I had to swim all the way in for it. Luckily the waves dissipated in the shallows, sparing it from a beating on the rocks. Reunited, we headed back out for more.

Surfline: Solid WNW groundswell is easing this afternoon but good breaks continue to see head high+ waves while standouts are up to double overhead and occasionally larger on sets. Buoy 46012: 7.9 ft @ 11.1 sec.


  1. Phew, I thought for s nano-second that you were going to say your Magic-board had broken. I usually put the cuff of my leg rope under my wettie just for that reason. It's a big ocean without your board alright. Sometimes when I have been out in challenging conditions I think: gee, I hope I don't lose my board!!

  2. Thankfully no! I was briefly worried when I saw Magic heading for the rocks.

    That's a good idea, but the legs of my suit are too tight for me to put over the double-thick leash cuff. (I have small ankles so it wraps around fully - you'd think it'd never come off!)