13 June 2009

Seal Point, 13 June 2009

The Surf Bloggers' Code requires concealing the identity of any break that is not well known or clearly visible from a main road. Today's break names are pseudonyms and I'll only say that they are somewhere on the Lonely Coast between Half Moon Bay and Santa Cruz.

L and I thought Seal Beach might be a good choice for our mid-morning board meeting, but it needed more water. Just past low tide, the overhead wave was breaking heavy and hollow in the shallows - above our skill and comfort level.



We tried a nearby well-known beach break, but it was jam-packed with surfers, so we drove a little to a new spot I'd never heard about until this morning. A couple guys were just leaving Seal Point and we had it all to ourselves. It was a long walk in carrying my shortboard, and I got hot in my top-down 4/3 wetsuit traipsing over dunes in the soft sand. At my approach, a startled deer bounded away from the path into the tall grass, turned and peered back at me.

Can you see the deer in this photo?
The beach at the end of the hike was gorgeous, as they all are on the Lonely Coast, with nice lefts peeling alongside in infrequent sets. Close to the rock-guarded Point, the waves were overhead, so we went in father down the beach where they dropped to (mostly) under head-high.

I caught only one wave, but it was AWESOME! One of my best rides EVER! In a land of rights, I think it was the first time I rode a left on my shortboard. It's so much nicer to be facing the wave instead of having it at my back, and I was totally dialed in for a great ride. I wanna do it again! WOO HOO!!!

3 comments:

  1. Yep, one great ride can do it. You should come to the south coast where we are, there are a lot of lefts unless you get an A-frame beachy that goes right as well.

    These litle videos are great but would be good to have a little more footage sometimes. That was a quick wave.

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  2. that video looks rough.

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