The Surf Bloggers' Code requires concealing the identity of any break that is not well known or clearly visible from a main road. Today's break names are pseudonyms and I'll only say that they are somewhere on the Lonely Coast between Half Moon Bay and Santa Cruz.
L and I thought Seal Beach might be a good choice for our mid-morning board meeting, but it needed more water. Just past low tide, the overhead wave was breaking heavy and hollow in the shallows - above our skill and comfort level.
We tried a nearby well-known beach break, but it was jam-packed with surfers, so we drove a little to a new spot I'd never heard about until this morning. A couple guys were just leaving Seal Point and we had it all to ourselves. It was a long walk in carrying my shortboard, and I got hot in my top-down 4/3 wetsuit traipsing over dunes in the soft sand. At my approach, a startled deer bounded away from the path into the tall grass, turned and peered back at me.
I caught only one wave, but it was AWESOME! One of my best rides EVER! In a land of rights, I think it was the first time I rode a left on my shortboard. It's so much nicer to be facing the wave instead of having it at my back, and I was totally dialed in for a great ride. I wanna do it again! WOO HOO!!!
Lefts are great!
ReplyDeleteYep, one great ride can do it. You should come to the south coast where we are, there are a lot of lefts unless you get an A-frame beachy that goes right as well.
ReplyDeleteThese litle videos are great but would be good to have a little more footage sometimes. That was a quick wave.
that video looks rough.
ReplyDelete