By the time S and I reached the beach after work and met up with L and his newbie friend R, the SW swell had come up a lot more, with some set waves overhead+ on the main peak. Unfortunately there were also a lot of people cluttering the best waves. This video was recorded near dusk when a bunch of them had left.
Because of the crowd (which had me almost longing for a shark sighting to empty the lineup), I ended up on the less-ideal second peak, where I searched for shoulders among the close-outs and high-tide mushburgers. I caught a couple closeouts that threw me, but got in some got in some good duck-diving practice. My duck-diving is starting to feel more right, and both L and S remarked that it looked right too. Still, another sesh without a good ride. Sigh. I'm going to have to haul out my longboard soon to bring my wavecount back up, and my stoke along with it.
wow, crowded
ReplyDeleteNice little waves but a lot seem to be going begging.
ReplyDelete