Seal Beach, 27 June 2009

Since a migraine ruined last week's surf session at Seal Beach, I wanted to go back and make up for it. And on my first day without my morning soy mocha (since they say caffeine is a headache trigger), I needed some cold duck dives just to wake up. After S and I went on a hot forest hike at Butano State Park, I was more than ready for a dip in the chilly Seal Beach water.

This time I took Nemo instead of the shortboard, and got a couple little lefts. L rode the wave of the day on his longboard, solidly in the pocket on a long right. In the face of a near head-high crashing closeout, I made my worst ever attempted duck-dive, sucked over the falls with my lower legs shooting into the air as the wave spun me ass over teakettle. But still, it was a fun non-scary tumble. Shortly after, I surprised myself with one perfect duck dive on an admittedly easier just-breaking wave.

It was a fun surf session on an absolutely gorgeous sunny summer day on the NorCal coast!

Butano State Park