wave journal of a surfer girl: Seal Beach, 21 June 2009

21 June 2009

Seal Beach, 21 June 2009

It's true, the water is much colder at Seal Beach.

Most of the coast was blown out like Pomponio.

1 comment:

Dr Mad FishJune 22, 2009
Hey they were great. You can get a much better idea of the conditions with the longer footage.
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Dawn at the beach. Air almost 50 degrees, water slightly warmer. Full moon hanging over the ocean, sun rising from the hills. Swell gently lifting my surfboard a little closer to the sky as it passes by on its way to touch the beach. Icy water trickling down the front of my wetsuit. Feet going numb from the cold despite neoprene booties and thermal socks. Two dolphins in the lineup chase silver fish, who leap into the air in a swirling mass, sparkling in the first rays of the sun. Then "pwwwfff!" as another dolphin surfaces and exhales not a dozen feet from me, before gracefully sliding back under the water. What a great way to start the day!