03 July 2009

Half Moon Bay @ Jetty, 3 July 2009

This wasn't quite the high wave-count longboard session I had in mind. The Jetty was bigger than the 2-3' forecast (thanks for nothin' Surfline) and it wasn't serving up mushy mellow longboard waves. Rather, the up to shoulder-high waves were steep and curling, and made me wish I'd brought the fish instead.

It didn't take long to realize that the reason I was pearling so much was that surfing steep waves on the LB was a skill I didn't master before moving to shorter boards. The 8' plank is just a different beast, and it was hard to keep the nose up. I was getting a bit frustrated but it felt good when I finally managed to land a drop for a nice ride. And I got a few more decent ones as well. So stoke is somewhat restored. Although, as always, I'm still thirsty for more.

Apologies, but technical difficulties ruined the best video, of a raucous party wave.


  1. I can relate. It takes a lot of practice to paddle from the middle of the board and then get back very quickly to make that bottom turn. You could also try taking off diagonally so that you can start trimming right away.

  2. Thanks for the tips. They'll come in handy if I find myself with the LB in similar conditions again. But I'd still rather have my fish!

  3. Really full wave. Yeah, my 8'4'' has really hard rails and lets me turn straight away, but it wouldn't get near these waves unless maybe if I was a lot further in-shore.