Roosevelt, 25 May 2009

This time S and I were a little late to the midday board meeting. L and V had already pronounced the Jetty too small and crowded, and relocated to choppier but empty Roosevelt. One thing about a break with no one on it is that it's hard to tell the size of the waves from the beach, and even when you're out in them, without the reference of a human for scale.

I caught a couple short rides on the fish soon after we got out, but then sat through a wave drought while L picked off mushier ones with his longboard. When my numb feet started telling me to come in, I caught one more, sticking the popup but blowing the drop midway when it yawned below me and I instinctively pulled back onto my rear leg. (Before I take the advice of veteran J to stop thinking and just feel the wave, I need to actively remember his other tip, to keep my weight forward and commit.) V was watching from the whitewater, where she'd retired to get more used to her new board on only her 8th time surfing. When I reached the beach, I was surprised when she told me the last wave had been over my head. It was a good thing I didn't know that, or my old enemy Fear would have made an unfortunate appearance. But although I didn't make the drop, that I survived unharmed gives me some confidence - I can do it next time.