wave journal of a surfer girl: It's Intermission

13 May 2009

It's Intermission

I'm taking a vacation from the virtual world to better enjoy the real one.

A hui hou! (See you later!)

3 comments:

ramsnakeMay 13, 2009
Have a good one and looking forward to hearing all about it when you return along with some great wrist cam footage!
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Jamie Welsh WatsonMay 14, 2009
Alo-HA!
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Craig OdaMay 14, 2009
Diamond Head is beautiful.
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42

Dawn at the beach. Air almost 50 degrees, water slightly warmer. Full moon hanging over the ocean, sun rising from the hills. Swell gently lifting my surfboard a little closer to the sky as it passes by on its way to touch the beach. Icy water trickling down the front of my wetsuit. Feet going numb from the cold despite neoprene booties and thermal socks. Two dolphins in the lineup chase silver fish, who leap into the air in a swirling mass, sparkling in the first rays of the sun. Then "pwwwfff!" as another dolphin surfaces and exhales not a dozen feet from me, before gracefully sliding back under the water. What a great way to start the day!