No matter that I'm still fighting a cold that has overstayed. No matter that I had only a half hour because I promised to get S to work by nine. I was at the Jetty before anyone else, although of course the solitude didn't last. Soon I was one of a handful of shortboarders waiting for waves with an almost equal number of longboarders.With looong lulls between sets, I spent most of the brief time doing a relaxing impression of a buoy. In the first 28 minutes, I saw maybe half a dozen rides. Just when I thought I'd be making the so-called Paddle of Shame, another set came through and I caught a slow moundy wave, but didn't manage to stay with it. Still, it's amazing the great feeling I get from even such a micro-ride, just that little splash of happy dopamine to the brain.
Any day that begins with surfing is a good day!
Yep. Have to agree. We got a small surf yesterday at our 'summer break'. Sets head high closing out the channels and annoying rips, but still felt good in the water. Half Moon Bay looks nice. Is that granite? We have granite EVERYWHERE here in Albany.
ReplyDeleteIt felt especially good after 2 weeks. Not sure what kind of rock was dumped to make the riprap Jetty next to Pillar Point Harbor. This is just around the corner from big wave spot Mavericks.
ReplyDeleteReally? That is a horror that place. So dark and forbidding (from the pictures.
ReplyDeleteI guess it can be on a gloomy winter day. But check out my pix from the contest last year ("Mavericks" label on left) - it was a gorgeous sunny day.
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