"The ocean stirs the heart, inspires the imagination and brings eternal joy to the soul." - Wyland
28 May 2009
Kelly Ave, 28 May 2009
This morning's dawn patrol before work was my shortest surf session ever. After checking the Jetty (overhead for those surfing mice), passing on Roosevelt (small and shapeless), deciding clean and shoulder-high Kelly was the best of the lot (since there were some shoulders among the closeouts), changing into my wetsuit (while nagging L into his after he muttered something about being cold and maybe just watching from the beach), and struggling to the outside through relentless short-period shorepound (with one awful duck dive that took me from almost in the lineup to almost back on the beach), I had only 15 minutes to surf. Neptune didn't smile upon me and grant me a ride in that brief time, but it was nevertheless good to get wet, and indeed essential ahead of the coming wave drought in NorCal. The forecast for the next 5 days is 1-2' with a bump up to 1-3' on Sunday. Woo. Hoo.
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